Pizza a la Parrilla

This is a Los Potreros speciality, the smoky taste of the pizza base from cooking outside on the parrilla combined with four different cheeses from Argentina and a rich tomato sauce is a speciality and one of our most popular lunches. Alongside making it a meal, we often use it as a ‘picada’ before an asado.

Serves 6

375ml tomato passata

Fresh basil and oregano

150g cheddar cheese, grated

150g blue cheese, crumbled

150g mozzarella

150g additional hard cheese (we use an unaged Parmesan)

2tsp dried oregano

2tsp chilli flakes

2 garlic, chopped

2 onions, diced

2tsp dried yeast

1 tsp sugar

450ml warm water

600g 00 flour, plus extra for dusting

1/2 tsp salt

2tbs olive oil

Preheat the oven to 200ºC/390ºF or light your fire if you are cooking on a grill or outdoor pizza oven.

To make the dough combined the flour and salt in a bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour in the yeast mixture with olive oil, and the warm water and knead for around 10 minutes until the dough is sticky and smooth and no longer sticks to your hands. If the dough is to sticky add more flour or water if it becomes to dry.

Using floured hands, transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl and cover with a tea towel and leave to sit for an hour until it has doubled in size.

Whilst you are waiting for the dough to prove, make the sauce by sautéing the garlic, onions and then adding the tomato passata, herbs and allow to cook through. Grate the cheese and leave to sit out of the fridge, this will help them to cook a little faster.

Divide the dough into two portions, on a lightly floured surface, roll and stretch out the dough to form a large thin circular or rectangle shape Transfer onto a lightly floured baking tray and repeat with the second.

If you are cooking on an outside grill, ensure you have plenty of coals and rub some olive oil into the dough to. make sure it does not stick and cook on each side. If you are cooking in the oven place the baking tray in the hot oven and flip the dough over as it starts to colour. This will happen quite quickly if the oven is hot! Otherwise transfer the dough into the pizza oven and allow the dough to go golden on each side. Remove from the oven and spread the tomato passata over the base and sprinkle with cheese and any remaining herbs. Argentines often add parma ham, onion or fresh olives as toppings. Once you have topped according to taste cook again long enough for the cheese to melt.

April in the Kitchen

Quince Jelly and Dulce de Membrillo

Inside all bakeries in Argentina, there are glass display cases overflowing with coconut-rimmed tarts filled with glistening, red jam. These are all made using 'dulce de membrillo’, which is a quince paste.  The Begg’s fondly remember their grandmother, making quince jelly and paste at Potrero de Niz when they were children. Tying a tea towel around the legs of a chair she would construct a sieve to drain the quince separating the paste from the jelly. Inedible raw quinces look like a cross between a pear and a golden apple, once cooked they turn sweet, with a vibrant red colour and have an incredible floral smell and taste. 

Quince Jelly

1.5kg quince, chopped roughly

1 lemon, zest peeled into strips, juiced

900g sugar 

Put the quince and lemon peel and juice in a large, deep saucepan. Cover with water (you'll need about 3 litres) and bring to the boil. 

Reduce to a simmer and cook for 90 minutes until the quince is very soft.

Line a colander with muslin cloth and put over a very large saucepan or heatproof bowl. Tip the quince into the lined colander, cover with a clean tea towel and leave to strain for 4-8 hrs until all the juice has dripped out. 

Keep the pulp for making ‘dulce de membrillo’. Measure out the strained juice and transfer to a large, deep saucepan (the jelly will bubble up high as it cooks). Add 500g sugar for every 600ml juice. Bring to the boil over a low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. 

Bring to a rapid bubble and cook until the temperature reaches 105ºC/221ºF on a sugar thermometer. Remove from the heat and ladle into hot sterilized jars and seal.  

Dulce de Membrillo 

Making membrillo is extremely easy. 

Take the quince pulp from the jelly and blend until smooth. Weigh the puree then put it in a large pot. Add an equal amount of granulated sugar to the mixture and place over a low heat. Stir the mixture constantly at first to dissolve the sugar, keep cooking until the mixture becomes thick (approx 1-2 hours). Once the mixture has thickened, it will stick to a wood spoon. 

Line a baking dish or lightly grease before pouring in the quince mixture. Allow the paste to cool, before placing in the oven on the lowest heat, dry the paste out (this can take up to three hours, if it has not set keep it in the oven checking it regularly). The surface should be glossy and not sticky to touch. Put the dish in the fridge and refrigerate overnight. 

Summer in the Kitchen - Part 2

As the summer stretches on we begin to harvest the figs - found across the estancia from our cattle station to the garden at Potrero de Niz. Whilst they are sweet they work perfectly with cheese, meat and other savoury foods. This year we have made lots of fig jams and chutney and with the final harvest we are going to try out hand a honey poached fig with orange and spices.  

The quince is always the last fruit of the orchard to ripen, when they turn a golden yellow, and omit a floral scent, you know it is time to get picking. To preserve the quince we looked at lots of different ideas and followed the Mediterranean influence of cooking the quinces in a sweet syrup to be enjoyed on our homemade yoghurt or even on fresh cheeses like labneh (something Kevin has been learning to prepare). 

Of course, there is nothing more Argentine and traditional than making quince jelly and membrillo, which go together hand in hand. First you make the quince jelly, boiling the fruit with sugar and allowing the colour to turn from yellow to a rich reddish pink. Following in the footsteps of Louie Begg, we separate the quince through a sieve constructed by a chair turned upside down and a tea-towel tied around the legs. This divides the quince jelly from the quince paste (the membrillo). 

In the coming weeks the walnuts will be falling from the trees and the  artichokes “topinambur” will be ready to be dug up and stored for the winter. Throughout the year there is always something to do and ways to save the fresh produce for the months ahead. We are looking forward to continuing this research into preserving foods and how we can learn to use nature to help us in reducing our overall carbon footprint. 

Pasta

Across the country menus feature a variety of pasta dishes that the Italian immigrants of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century brought with them. The rolling of the pasta dough is a true art and it is always a delight to see our chefs effortlessly rolling out the dough to make anything from lasagne sheets to fresh raviolis or spaghetti. 

Follow the link for our basic pasta dough recipe and why not try making out sorrentino’s.

Mate

‘Mate’ is integral to the gaucho culture and learning how to drink it is an art. Pronounced mat-aay, mate is the name of the pot or gourd from which you drink it. The tea or herb is simply called ‘Yerba’. The drinking of mate is offered by the server, the ‘cebador’. The leaves are covered with hot water, not boiling, and the liquid is sipped through a ‘bombilla’, the metal straw. It is often passed around between friends and family, mate is a shared experience. One mate gourd is passed around the room for all share, whether you are family, friends or strangers. The yerba mate grows wild in the subtropical jungles of Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, Brazil and Bolivia. It is renowned for its energetic properties and is an old Guarani tradition from the native Indians in South America. 

Mate is one of the drinks which falls into the category of needing an acquired taste. It is not uncommon to see Argentines walking down the street with a thermos of hot water under their arm and a mate gourd in their hand, as they drink, talk and walk. During the long process of Argentina’s independence in the 19th century, the tradition of mate gained strength across the country and the gauchos adopted mate as a part of their culture. Mate is particularly popular with Argentines especially in the morning as it contains a high amount of caffeine. Alongside a high caffeine content, it is also full of anti-oxidants and vitamins containing seven of nine essential amino acids.

Gnocchi

In Argentina the 29th day of the month is the chosen day to eat gnocchi (Ñoqui in Spanish). The story of the tradition is pretty simple. The 29th of the month was just before payday — people got paid on the last day of the month — so by the end of the month, money was tight and all that was left in the larder was potatoes and flour. Gnocchi are the perfect solution as they are filling and not expensive. Eating gnocchi on the 29th is also considered to bring financial luck. To ensure a prosperous month ahead many Argentines will place money under the place mat whilst they eat. Like many traditions in Argentina this has come from Italian immigrants who came to work and live here in the 19th century.

Quantities for 6 people

5 big potatoes*

4 Egg

3 cups of flour

Wash potatoes and boil with skins on. Peel the potatoes and mash one at a time. Let the potatoes cool by pushing out onto a surface, the larger the surface area the quicker they will cool. Once you have the potatoes cooled and flat on the counter crack one egg into the middle and mix well. Mix in flour, folding and pressing the mixture out to ensure the flour and potatoes are combined. Always add more flour until they become firm but still malleable. Cut the mixture into equal parts and roll into a sausage and cut into small pieces about 2cm x 1cm. Prepare the sauce. Cook the gnocchi in hot water, when they rise to the surface they are cooked. Have a dish ready to put in the oven to keep the gnocchi warm whilst you cook the rest. Layer the sauce first in the pan followed by the cooked gnocchi. Place it in the oven and once you have the next batch ready place more sauce over the first batch and then add the next round of gnocchi. 

* The fresher the potatoes are the better the gnocchi - use one potato per person and then three more.

Chicken Asado

The asado originated in the 19th century with the gauchos, the word is used to describe both the occasion and the meat itself, traditionally wood from the White Quebracho tree would be used as it is relatively smokeless and produces good coals. Whilst beef is the focus of the asado many argentines also choose to cook chicken. Lunches at Los Potreros include both options but we particularly love a chicken asado. Chicken cooked on the parrilla marinated with lemon, onion, garlic, fresh herbs and olive oil. The preferred method is cooking the chicken as a whole butterflied. 

1 Chicken 

3 Onions

4 Garlic Cloves

Lemon Juice 

Fresh thyme & rosemary

Olive oil 

To prepare the parrilla for cooking you will need a lot of coals and a higher temperature than cooking beef, so ensure you light the fire around 30 minutes earlier than if you were cooking a normal asado. Light the fire around 11am to have sufficient time to begin cooking for a 1330 lunch. You will need minimum of one and a half hours to cook the chicken and must always put chicken on the parrilla for half an hour more than any red meat. Using a butterflied chicken place on the parrilla bone face-down and allow the chicken to start cooking. To check if the grill is hot enough hold your hand above it and if you can hold it for longer than 10 seconds you need to add more coals. Peel the onions and garlic and blend with the lemon juice and olive oil until it produces a thick paste and roughly cut the fresh herbs and add them to the mix. Brush the chicken with the paste whilst cooking, 3 or 4 times until serving, to ensure the chicken stays moist and does not become too dry. Turn the chickens regularly so they don’t burn and to allow for even cooking.

*   goes really well with a fresh salad and bread cooked on the parrilla. Top the bread with fresh tomatoes diced with oregano, diced onions and a little olive oil.

Pollo Al Disco

Food prepared “al disco” does not refer to a particular recipe but rather a cooking style. 

Traditionally farm workers would use the blade of their plough; flipped on its side, wiped clean and with a fire lit below - these days we use a huge iron plow disc heated over a wood fire, but you can recreate this in a heavy bottom pan. Discos provide a large surface area for cooking while remaining easily portable, they are particularly useful for preparing meals away from the kitchen. 

The following recipe for pollo al disco is using white wine, but this can be substituted with beer.

Serves 4  

3 x chicken breasts - either cooked whole or cut into chunks

2 onions

2 red peppers sliced

2 green peppers 

A handful of fresh herbs chopped

2 diced garlic cloves

Cream

Chilli flakes

Paprika 

2 bay leaf

White wine

Water

Olive oil

To prepare the chicken use breast meat or cut into chunks on the bone (if leaving pieces on the bone it will take longer to cook).  Once the disco is placed over the flames begin cooking immediately or it will burn and smoke. Add a splash of oil and sauté the chicken, stirring often until the chicken has colour all over. Once the chicken has begun cooking add the onions and garlic, allow to soften. Then add white wine, peppers, spices and herbs - flavor according to taste. Continue to add wine and water throughout cooking to ensure the meat doesn’t dry out. Stir often. Do not taste the sauce until the chicken is cooked. 

Once the chicken has been cooked, and you are ready to serve drizzle some cream over the chicken, as you plate it.  

The History of Dulce de Leche

Eaten with almost everything in Argentina, dulce de leche is spread on toast, used to fill facturas, decorate flans, or just eaten straight from the jar. 

As the local legend tells it, the birth of dulce de leche can be put down to a culinary accident that occurred in 1829. 

With the hope of ending a period of civil war in Argentina, the leaders of opposing political and military forces, Juan Manuel de Rosas and Juan Lavalle, decided to call a truce. Rosas invited Lavalle to sign the Cañuelas Pact at his headquarters on a large ranch called La Caledonia. Lavalle arrived at the ranch tired from the journey, and he decided to rest a bit before meeting with Rosas. He decided to take his siesta in the tent where Rosas normally slept.

Meanwhile, one of Rosas’ servants was busy preparing the ‘lechada’ - hot milk with sugar - that was drunk as an accompaniment to mate during that period. When the servant went to take some mate to Rosas, she found Lavalle in Rosas’ tent and panicked. Unaware of the planned meeting between the two leaders, she alerted the troops to the presence of the “enemy,” leaving the lechada unattended on the stove in the chaos. When she finally returned, she discovered that the contents of the pot had turned into a thick, gooey spread—what we know today as dulce de leche.

Alfajores Marplatenses

Not a cake, or a biscuit, it is more of a sandwich cookie, a traditional argentine sweet and the perfect base for dulce de leche. With Arabian origins they were brought to Argentina by the Spanish, and have slowly evolved overtime and like most food in Argentina, they have been reinvented across the country and changing in many provinces. Alfajores Marplatenses are from the Buenos Aires coast and are the standard assumption of Alfajores.  An alfajor can combine chocolate, dulce de leche, meringue, coconut, icing sugar, jam and even mousse. 

340g Self raising flour 

160g cornflour

60g cocoa powder 

150g butter

2 eggs

Splash of milk

50g honey

1tsp vanilla extract 

A jar of dulce de leche

Cream sugar, butter and vanilla extract.  

Add egg and mix well using a fork.

Then add the milk.

Add dry ingredients in 2 stages, if necessary add a little more flour until becomes like pastry. 

Chill the mixture for a minimum half an hour. 

Roll out and cut into circles. 

Cook in an oven of 180ºC/355°F for 10 minutes or until the biscuits are firm but soft when pressed.

Once baked cooked leave to cool and then sandwich two biscuits together with dulce de leche. To finish can be finished dipped in a chocolate ganache or sprinkled with icing sugar. 

Butternut Squash Sorrentinos with Blue Cheese Sauce

Argentines claim that there’s nothing in Italy quite like a sorrentino, making them an Argentine invention. Unlike their close relative the ravioli, which aims for a balance between dough and filling, sorrentino’s are plump and overstuffed. As with other stuffed pastas, both the sorrentino dough and the filling can be imaginatively flavoured to create an endless number of options. The choice of sauce also plays an important role in the dish. A favourite on the estancia is a butternut squash with a butter, sage and garlic sauce or for the more adventurous a blue cheese sauce.

Sage and Butter Filling - fresh sage, butter, garlic, dried herbs, salt and pepper

Blue Cheese - a strong blue cheese we like roquefort melted with a splash of double cream

Pasta Dough - for our recipe on how to make pasta click here.

To make the stuffing, cut the butternut squash in half down the middle and then roast in the oven, with garlic until it is soft and both will peel away from the skin. 

Mash the butternut squash, sprinkling in salt, pepper, finely chopped chives and a handful of chilli flakes.

Begin rolling out the pasta using a pasta machine or rolling pin. If using a pasta machine roll through until about 4mm.

Use this mixture to fill the raviolis, whilst the pasta is cooking make a simple sauce. 

For the sage and butter sauce, simply melt butter in a pan and throw in handfuls of fresh sage, dried herbs, chilli flakes and diced garlic.. 

If you want a blue cheese sauce, simply melt the blue cheese of your choice, with a piece of butter and a splash of cream. 

Pasta Dough

Argentina’s passion for red meat and wine is closely followed by their love of pasta. Across the country menus feature a variety of pasta dishes that the Italian immigrants of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century brought with them. 

1 egg per cup of flour with the addition of two extra egg yolk  (1 cup of flour per person) 

Olive oil

Salt

Water

Make a well in the centre of the flour, add the eggs then begin mixing the dough together. Adding tepid water and olive oil as you go. Only add a splash of olive oil - too much and it will be harder to roll as the mixture will split and become less flexible. 

Once the dough has formed it should not stick to your hands when you touch it.

The pasta should then be placed in the fridge for at least one hour to set and chill before rolling. 

Begin rolling out the pasta using a pasta machine or rolling pin. If using a pasta machine roll through until thin about 4mm.

Bread

4 tsp yeast

2 tsp flour

1 tsp white sugar

1 tbs salt

2 tbs sunflower oil

1kg white flour + extra flour for forming and adding to mixture if necessary.

Warm water 

Mix yeast, 2tsp of flour and sugar in a mug and add a splash of warm water, mixing to form a paste. Allow mixture to rise to top of mug before continuing. 

Tip all flour into bowl and make a well in the centre. Once yeast has risen place in centre of the flour and mix. Incorporate the oil. Add warm water and continue to make a dough. Add flour and water, until the dough becomes less sticky and does not remain on your hands. 

Kneed the dough to gain elasticity.

Place the dough back in the bowl, cover with a tea towel and leave to rise somewhere warm (above an oven works well!). 

Leave the dough until it doubles in size. 

Sprinkle the counter with flour and roll the dough out and form. 

Cook in the oven at 190ºC/370°F, until it goes golden brown and when you tap the underneath it sounds hollow. 

*if the weather outside is cold the oven will take longer to heat and therefore bread will take longer to make. When the weather is hot the oven will heat much faster so it  is worth keeping a close eye on the bread to ensure it doesn’t overcook.  To check it is properly cooked tap the base once removed from oven and it will sound hollow. 

A Los Potreros Asado

No visit to Argentina is complete without an asado, and at Los Potreros no matter the occasion we try to enjoy weekly asado’s ranging from suckling pig, cuts of beef, potatoes to a whole host of vegetables.

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The Asado

The Argentine asado (or barbecue) is more than just a meal; it is an essential part of Argentine life. The default option for celebrating birthdays, special events, and holidays, or simply just an excuse to gather with family and friends. You cannot visit Argentina without enjoying an asado. They tend to be long, drawn-out meals stretching through the afternoon and into the evening. An asado is cooking in its purest most simple form. 

Argentines prepare the meat for an asado very simply; just with salt. They prefer not to use marinades. The asador will season the meat with coarse salt, but the true flavour of the asado comes from good grilling techniques and high quality beef. Most Argentines prefer their meat cooked medium well or well done and often like the fattier cuts of meat, as they typically have more flavour.

At a typical asado, at least three of the following items will be prepared. Sausages are served first, followed by other cuts of meat. The other cuts of meat could include;

• Chorizo (pork sausage seasoned with salt, black pepper, garlic)

• Morcilla (blood sausage)

• Salchicha Parrillera (thin sausage rolled  in a large spiral)

• Mollejas (sweetbreads)

• Tira de Asado (short ribs)

• Vacío (flank steak)

• Bife de chorizo (sirloin steak)

• Matambre (flank)

• Achuras (offal)

• Chinchulines (small intestines)

• Riñones (kidneys)

There may also be grilled chicken, pork or kid offered as well. At Los Potreros and across Argentina, a suckling pig is cooked on the parrilla on special occasions such as Christmas or New Year’s Eve. 

Argentine asado’s are all about the meat, but there’s usually at least one or two token vegetables or non-meat dishes on offer. Provoleta, a grilled, gooey slab of cheese seasoned with fresh herbs from the garden, makes the perfect start to the meal. Potatoes, sweetcorn or bell peppers roasted also feature regularly on the Los Potreros menu.  

Starting the fire with dry hard wood creates better coals. Light the fire around 11:00 for a 14:00 lunch or earlier depending on the number of coals needed for cooking and type of wood.

Keep adding wood and once you have good coals place them under the parrilla. 

Cook the meat on top - it takes a long time for well cooked meat so bare this in mind. Once you have coals under the parrilla you can test to see if it is hot enough for cooking if you can hold your hand above for more than 10 seconds it needs more coals. Another sign to listen for is if you can hear the meat sizzling when you put it on the grill.